Earlier today I went to Sultanahmet. I meant to visit the museum of Islamic and Asian art but the upstairs (the art) was closed so I decided to come back later. I walked into the courtyard of a mosque, (Sultanahmet I believe) but was told by some guy who I thought worked there that the mosque was closed for prayer time. I wasn't actually planning on going in since I had short sleeves and no head scarf. The guy assured me he was not a guide but I mistrusted his eagerness to talk. It turns out he was trying to get me to go to his carpet shop to teach me about the difference between Kilim and Hali (which I know). I said I prefered to walk. Later I saw another guy telling some tourists about how he wanted to show them his carpet shop... I thought about going to another museum. Then I saw the Aya Sofia. As good a choice as any....
 
In my mind, Istanbul represents the happy medium. It occupies the middle ground between Europe and Asia, between East and West, between Christianity and Islam. An example of this is the Aya Sofya (or Hagia Sofia). Completed in 548 by the Emperor Justinian, the Aya Sofya was considered to be the greatest Christian church until the fall of Constantinople. In 1453, Mehmet the Conquerer lived up to his name and took over Constantinople (or maybe that is how he got his name in the first place). Aya Sofya became a mosque. Apparently, neither god, saint nor prophet seemed to mind this switch, Aya Sofya continued to exist as a mosque (through several earthquakes) until 1935 when Ataturk proclaimed it a museum. For such a famous building, I'm surprised the Aya Sofya hasn't been the cause of any conflicts (such as those surrounding the Temple of the Rock in Jerusalem). Perhaps, this is due to the dedication of this church to Holy Wisdom, a worthy recipient of praise from any group of people and possibly an inspiration to use some common sense.
 
According to the guidebook (which I read after I visited the museum), I conducted my visit in the completely wrong way. First of all, instead of walking straight in through the central doors, I got distracted by some slabs of stone propped against the walls. They were rather dirty mosaics and various carved stone items. It looked like they were waiting for the archaelogists to show up. This distraction led me in through a side door. Instead of marching regally into the center of the church/mosque/museum, I made my way around the edges, examining painted patterns and stone textures. My walk finally brought me to the front where, at one point in time, kings were crowned but now mostly pictures and videos are taken of the glowing Mary mosaic floating overhead. The central part of the church/mosque/museum was dominated by an impressive tower of scafolding reaching from floor to dome. I admired this sculpture of black poles and orange plastic and then went in search of a way upstairs. Eventually I found a stone ramp leading up to the gallery. I found this the most beautiful part of the Aya Sophia, with its view and columned arches. From the gallery the bizzare combination of Islamic looking painting, beautiful arabic (or Otoman)calligraphic seals and Byzantine mosaics depicting various people of importance with Jesus and Mary could be fully viewed and appreciated; Middle East meeting West. I love this city!